Most birders are aware of the Dry Tortugas which is located about 70 miles west of Key West, Florida. This place is often mentioned as a 'must see' for hard core birders. Its remoteness is part of the allure and magic of this place. It is now a US National Park and is home to Ft Jefferson. The Dry Tortugas consist of 7 islets, or keys. The 3 largest keys, Garden Key, Loggerhead Key, and Bush key make up more than 90% of the land mass of the Dry Tortugas. The rest are small and are constantly changing due to weather, tides, and currents. They were named because sea turtles were originally found there and they have no fresh water source. Garden Key is the home of Ft Jefferson and is the only key that is accessible to most people by boat or by sea plane. Bush Key is sometimes attached to Garden Key, but is often off limits as it is an active nesting colony for Brown Noddy and Sooty Terns. During spring migration, this spot is attractive to many migrants crossing the Gulf of Mexico and many drop in to forage and get some energy back before continuing with their journey northward. For those reasons, this spot is a must see spot for most birders.
The boat ride is about 3 hours to arrive at Garden Key and Ft Jefferson. The seas were fairly void of any seabirds until we approached our destination. We started seeing Brown Noddies and Sooty Terns as we approached about 5 miles out. I was fortunate to get a couple of photos of a Brown Noddy flying close to the boat. What is really cool is the fact that this species was my 600th ABA bird. A great bird for a nice milestone. (700 is a long ways off. Going to take some extra effort to reach that milestone!)
Brown Noddy
Once we arrived at Garden Key, we got to observe many more Brown Noddies including many on Bush Key which was off limits for us. Here are some photos of some of the Brown Noddies from Garden Key. Perching and resting space is at a premium and this pair was not about to give up their perch.
Brown Noddy - Photo sequence
We were able to see the nesting areas of Bush Key from a distance which included Brown Noddy and Sooty Terns. Here is a photo of the nesting area which shows both species and it is followed by a photo of a Sooty Tern that was injured along the shore of Garden Key.
Brown Noddy & Sooty Terns - Nesting on Bush Key
Sooty Tern
We also were able to find some Bridled Terns on the coal pilings near the camping area. From a distance they might be a bit difficult to distinguish from Sooty Terns, but these were close enough for us to see the different field marks such as the pale mantle and the amount of white on forehead which is different in these two species.
Bridled Tern
On the boat trip from Key West to Garden Key, the captain made a point to approach Hospital Key, which was nothing but a long sandbar rising above the water. While this does not sound exciting, it happens to be the small island that the Masked Booby has claimed as their small territory. This was an example of why a zoom lens is needed for photos. Photos had to be made from a distance as the boat could not approach very closely due to shallow water and also to prevent any disturbance to the birds.
Masked Booby
One of the unique features of the Dry Tortugas is the fact that it is one of the very first specks of land that many migrants see as they are crossing the Gulf of Mexico. Due to the extreme distance they have traveled and the possibility of encountering storms or unfavorable winds, many of these birds will land on this speck of land in search of food and water. The only spot of fresh water on the island is inside Ft Jefferson at a cistern where fresh water is stored for the few rangers that live at the park. This water is hauled in on a regular basis and this cistern, which has an open area at the top with a water drip, is the place to get a drink. With fewer trees and a limited water source, these many passerines are easier to observe. Below are some of the photos that I captured of some of these birds.
Black-whiskered Vireo
Gray Kingbird
Cape May Warbler
Hooded Warbler
Prothonotary Warbler
Swainson's Thrush
Rose-breasted Grosbeak
Ruddy Turnstones
Black Skimmers - We enjoyed this flock as we were departing Key West in the morning.
Ft Jefferson on Garden key is not a paradise for the migrants! It has its share of predators. We documented American Kestrel, Sharp-shinned Hawk, Merlin, Peregrine Falcon, and several Cattle Egrets. The unfortunate victims of these predators were often many of the song birds. However the Peregrine Falcon preferred to feast on the terns and noddies that were in abundance.
Cattle Egret
An opportunistic Cattle Egret
Peregrine Falcon
Ft Jefferson on Garden Key - This was taken on our approach to the island.
This is Loggerhead Key with the lighthouse and is off limits to all personnel, except for National Park Staff.
I highly recommend a trip to the Dry Tortugas if you are heading to Florida for birding. You can go as a one day trip where you go out and come back the same day. However, you can also go and camp out in the small camping area, but keep in mind that there is no fresh water or food on the island, so plan your trip well. Also, get your reservations in on the Yankee Freedom III in advance. Some of the trips tend to fill quickly. I know that I will definitely find time for another trip to the Dry Tortugas if I make it back to Florida in the future!
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